Japan Trip 2023: It's Finally Happening!
I will be traveling through Japan this October! Please be sure to check out this page starting October 3rd as I blog my adventures. I will be visiting Hiroshima, Kyoto, Matsumoto, Shinanomachi (Nagano), and Tokyo, with as wide a range of experiences as I can squeeze in: skyscrapers, tiny villages, shrines, castles, museums, theme parks, nature, books, towers, Michael Ende, and lots and lots of trains.
Japan Day 1: Airports and Airplanes
Made it through security at the airport quickly, so watched the Budweiser Brew House begin its morning opening routine while wondering who wants a beer or Cutwater canned cocktail at 4:30 in the morning.
Flight to Minnesota was quick. As we were arriving, looked out the window to see the myriad of lakes - the state lives up to its motto. Was also impressed by the number of baseball diamonds.
Once in the airport, I decided to kill time and stretch my legs by seeking out Snoopy, who was standing guard over the children’s play area.
I logged about 5000 steps walking the airport. In addition to Snoopy, I also saw an entire store dedicated to the Artist Formerly Known as Prince.
Finished with my walk, I plopped down at a table at my gate to enjoy my breakfast (blueberry Pop-Tarts) and to update my travel journal (and this blog).
I have a thirteen and a half hour flight ahead of me; when I land, it will be tomorrow (Tokyo is also 14 hours ahead, time-zone-wise). So I shall end today’s post with a simple, but excited remark.
Next stop: Japan!
Japan Day 2: Arrival and More Travel
I cannot sleep on airplanes, even when a bevy of advantages are thrown my way. The plane was not very full, meaning the seat next to me was completely empty. My noise-canceling headphones reduced the engine noise an amazing amount. Yet I could not sleep.
I watched Ferris macht blau, i.e. Ferris Bueller’s Day Off dubbed in German. I’ve seen it before, and I used to be rather bothered by high-pitched German Ferris, but it didn’t annoy me this time. Fun facts: Anytime a character asks another if they speak English, that becomes “Do you speak my language?” The German-language gang don’t eat pancreas; they have octopus instead. And the baseball game chant is for a pitcher named Kennedy.
The woman in front of me watched Misery (I happened to glance up right at the leg breaking scene), The Whale, and some movie on the war in Afghanistan. Really cheery.
Beyond the movie, I read a bit from Matt Parker’s Things to Make and Do in the Fourth Dimension (I have a complaint about the British spelling of “gaol”, or jail), played various varieties of solitaire, and listened to some episodes of the Lateral podcast I had downloaded.
Food-wise, I got the Kosher meal to best accommodate my allergy. Because of this, I got my food before the rest of the passengers and completely sealed, to prevent contamination. My main meal was salmon in sweet chili sauce with rice and zucchini (this was tasty), a roll with non-dairy margarine (also good), “barley salad” (frozen, yet also in water, with corn and peppers. Took a couple of bites and couldn’t do more), and a cake with chocolate topping. The breakfast was terrible - a bagel with egg between it and some questionable fruit.
After the neverending flight ended, I made it through customs and immigration relatively quickly. I then withdrew some cash and got a ticket for the train from the airport to Shinagawa, where I bought a coca-cola, a tuna-mayonnaise rice ball (learning that 乳化剤, despite having the milk 乳 character in it, isn’t a dairy word. It means “emulsifier”), and a Shinkansen (the bullet train!) ticket to Hiroshima.
The Shinkansen is so fast. The sudden appearance, sound, and slight change in pressure when we pass another train going in the opposite direction has made me jump a few times. The speed also makes it hard to take photos from the window. Here are a couple of my attempts at getting Mt. Fuji:
I’m in Hiroshima now and I’ve had very little sleep the past few days, so good night.
Japan Day 3: Miyajima Island and Hiroshima
I’m staying in a space cat themed hostel in what is essentially a capsule hotel style mixed dormitory. The capsule has a light, charging USB and electric outlet, a small safe, but otherwise is just a bed. I imagine the bed would be hard for most people (slightly harder than mine), but I quite like it. The toilet starts making bird and forest sounds as soon as you sit on it, to cover up your own shameful sounds, and comes with bidet functions.
I slept in a few hours-long bursts, finally getting up around 7:30 and making my way to the ferry port for the sightseeing ferry that runs from the Hiroshima Atom Bomb Dome to Miyajima Island. It’s not the cheapest ferry option (Round-trip = ¥4000 - $26.85), but it was the most convenient and was also very informative, with a slideshow explaining important sites as we passed them. I learned a lot about oyster farming, and also really enjoyed the cartoon image they showed us when we switched from river speed to ocean speed.
Once on Miyajima, I made my way towards the giant O-torii gate and Itsukushima shrine. The shrine was incredibly packed with people, as there were several school groups touring it at the same time, and I definitely missed some things. After exiting the shrine, I made my way to the beach, where I sat for a while and did a quick watercolor sketch of the view. A highlight was watching a Japanese school girl chase a small crab (picture a 1-inch conch shell, but with legs) around the beach while yelling “Kani! Kani! Kani da!” (Crab! Crab! It’s a crab!)
I then meandered through the town and decided to head through the forest towards Momijidani Park. I saw a number of the tame deer that roam the island. Near the ferry station, an announcement repeatedly warned that the antlered male deer could be aggressive right now, since it is the autumnal mating season, but all of the deer I saw were very chill. I also saw some beautiful ravens, as well as a huge spider and some dragonflies.
At this point my camera informed me that the batteries were “exhausted” and I learned that my spare battery was also too tired to work, so the rest of the photos are from my phone. I was feeling pretty tired (this is the most walking I’ve done in over a month), so I decided to head back towards the ferry, passing by the five-storied pagoda and once again finding myself in the middle of various tour groups.
The ferry normally allows passengers to stand on the deck while cruising the river, but this was not allowed on my way to the island (tide too low) or on my way back (tide too high). The tide was so high, in fact, that it was very nerve wracking as we slowly passed under some of the river bridges.
Once we docked, I made my way to the Peace Park, which commemorates the dropping of the nuclear bomb on the city. Most of my interactions have defaulted to English, but I had my first fun conversation in Japanese inside the tourist information center here. The clerk near the commemorative stamp station wanted to know if my hat was Bulbasaur (Fushigidane, or “Mystery Seed” - though it also sounds like “It’s mysterious, isn’t it?”), and so we spent some time looking up Squirtle in Japanese (“Zenigame” - “baby turtle”, but what’s really great is that the kanji are 銭亀, or “One-Cent Turtle” and Penny, my own little one-cent, gave me this hat). So thank you Penny for giving me my first great Japanese conversation.
I walked around 17,400 steps today, covering 5.8 miles according to my phone. I took a good (probably too long) nap after getting back to the hostel. Sun exposure always wipes me out, and my feet are very aware that there was much walking. I have also heard German spoken three or four times today.
Tomorrow I shall get on the Shinkansen and head to Kyoto!
Japan Day 4: Traveling to Kyoto
Meandered through the streets of Hiroshima to the train station. I continue to be amazed how most city streets are single-lane affairs shared by cars, bicycles, and pedestrians.
I found some cool manhole covers along the way. I have a book at home that has 700 manhole covers from across Japan in it arranged by theme, and I’m pretty sure both of these are in it.
Hiroshima station was packed. I had to wait in line quite a while to exchange my voucher for my rail pass, which is effective from today. The Shinkansen I took from Hiroshima to Shin-Osaka was packed. I had some Pringles on the train; they are much smaller than American ones, less curved, less salty than even the reduced salt ones I normally buy, and less flavorful. But hungry people with limited food options can’t be choosy.
I then bought a ticket from Shin-Osaka to Kyoto. This was not a Shinkansen train, and it was very difficult finding the correct platform. I literally made it on at the last second. Unlike the Shinkansen, there was hardly anyone on this train.
After arriving to Kyoto, I found my hostel for the next few nights. They let me check-in a little early and I took a small nap. The beds here are more like traditional hostel beds, though they do have a privacy curtain, USB charging ports, and a small reading light. I can tell already that it will be a bit harder to sleep tonight; the person in the bunk below me also was napping and he snores.
After my nap, I headed back to the station to get some food from the incredibly large department store there. I have now seen - but certainly didn’t purchase - Japan’s infamously expensive fruit. The apples ranged from ¥400 ($2.70) to ¥900 ($6.05) each depending on the variety. Grapes were ¥1800 ($12.10) to ¥2300 ($15.45) for a small bunch, and I saw a ¥6800 ($45.68) melon.
I also got a glimpse of the Kyoto Tower, which has been mocked in just about every guide I’ve seen as being a silly looking rocket. I don’t think it looked too bad.
The coolest part of Kyoto Station is this illuminated staircase that stretches up 11 stories. The lights show animations accompanied by sounds and music.
Today was mostly traveling, but I’ll have two full days in Kyoto, so check back tomorrow!
Japan Day 5: Bamboo, Monkeys, and the Toei Movie Studio Park
I got up rather early this morning, and had a bit of a struggle finding the local train I wanted, but made it in the end. It was absolutely packed, my punishment for being so early, as it was full of students and other commuters. One fun feature of the train: the seat backs can be flipped to the other side, so when the train at its first/final stop switches direction you can always face the way it is headed.
My first destination was the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. The bamboo on either side of the path is insanely tall, and it was beautiful, but boy did it become crowded quick. I was also surprised to find out that there are blocked paths to private residential scattered throughout, in addition to some shrines, temples, and closed-off (for good reason) cemeteries.
After wandering through the bamboo path, I headed towards the Togetsukyo Bridge, which has existed in some form since the 800s and is a famous subject of Ukiyo-e woodblock prints. The current iteration maintains the wooden railings but has concrete as its floor so that cars can drive over.
On the mountain side of the bridge, I started ascending up a very vertical, but at least shaded, forest trail. 160 meters up, or 525 feet, is the Iwatayama Monkey Park. It takes about 30 minutes to climb up to the top, but once there you are able to be up close to Japanese snow monkeys.
After climbing back down the 160 meters, I decided to punish my feet some more, since I was just one station away, and I went to the Toei Movie Studio Park, which is attached to a real Toei movie lot.
The whole park is like stepping inside of a Japanese period film, if that period film had a bunch of modern elementary school children running around in fox masks hitting each other with foam swords. I think it is probably best for groups of 2 or more, to take advantage of all of the photo opportunities, or for small kids, since that’s who the attractions are mostly aimed at. There isn’t a ton of English, but I still recommend it, especially if one is a fan of samurai movies.
I walked over 25,000 steps today (over 7 miles). I also discovered that around the corner from my hostel are a koi breeding farm and also a robot hotel, where robotic velociraptors serve to check you in. I also saw an old man practice his golf swing against the concrete of the street.
I had food from 7-Eleven today; essentially yakisoba with some pieces of pork. It was a bit spicier than I anticipated, but good. I also did laundry.
I shouldn’t have complained of my bunkmate; tonight’s bottom bunk inhabiter has wrinkled plastic for like five hours straight.
Tomorrow will be more adventures in Kyoto.
Japan Day 6: Fushimi Inari Taisha, Trains, and Giant Salamanders
This morning I headed to Fushimi Inari Taisha, a head Shinto shrine famous for its thousand red torii gates of various sizes, hundreds of which form tunnels. There are fox statues everywhere because the white (invisible spirit) fox is supposed to be a messenger for the Inari, the kami for rice, agriculture, and business.
I then headed for the Kyoto Railway Museum. This place was awesome. It has 54 engines and train cars on display, as well as exhibits on the history of trains in Japan and every aspect of the workings, construction, and maintenance of trains and subways. Best bang for my buck so far. It wasn’t very crowded and there was a good mix of excited small children and train enthusiasts.
The Railway Museum was connected to a park which had a craft fair happening and which seemed to be getting ready for a large outdoor music festival over the next couple of days. I meandered through, since that was also the way back to Kyoto Station and I didn’t feel like packing myself like a sardine into the train for a single stop. Halfway along the park I found myself at the Kyoto Aquarium snd decided to visit. It’s a small aquarium, but it was slightly cheaper than the St. Louis one and I think a better deal, particularly if you like jellyfish, eels, or salamanders.
One particularly cool thing about the aquarium is that all of the identify-that-creature signs are beautifully painted by students of the local art college.
Tomorrow I hop on a train early in the morning and head for Matsumoto and the Japanese Alps.
Japan Day 7: Woodblock Prints and Matsumoto Castle
Left Kyoto very early this morning and headed into the mountains to Matsumoto. I recorded video of one of the Shinkansen arriving and departing, in case you didn’t get enough of trains in yesterday’s post.
I had to switch from the Shinkansen to a regular regional train at Nagoya, but the scenery along this route was beautiful.
As we approached Matsumoto, some of the peaks ceased having trees on them, wearing a crown of snow instead. It was cloudy and grey when I reached Matsumoto station. I grabbed a snack, and then took a local train towards the Matsumoto Ukiyo-e Museum, which is out more in the suburbs/countryside.
I am a big fan of Japanese woodblock prints; I have many books at home on Ukiyo-E prints. I was really excited therefore to go to the museum. When paying my entrance fee, the elderly man at the register smiled and quipped that those over 60 don’t have to pay the full price. I replied that I’m not quite there yet. There are only around 150 prints (out of a collection of 10,000) on display at a time. There is also a video showing the process of carving the blocks and making the prints.
Google assured me it was only a 25-minute walk to Matsumoto Castle from the museum, so I headed back towards the city rather than walk back to the local train stop (where I could have had to wait up to 45 minutes). My feet would have probably preferred I hadn’t, but it was neat seeing a part of Japan that wasn’t city.
I did eventually reach the castle and joined the slow moving line through the castle interior up to the top of the keep.
After making my way back down and putting on my shoes, I headed through Matsumoto back towards the train station, around where my hotel for the night is. I saw a a wedding procession in traditional dress. I really enjoyed the look of the buildings of Matsumoto in comparison to Hiroshima and Kyoto. I feel like they were more varied in design. Some were downright playful.
I’m staying in private rooms the rest of my trip with private bathrooms. This particular hotel has you take your shoes off immediately; they have to be stored in the shoe room while you are at the hotel.
Tomorrow I will be heading out early for Shinano and my most-anticipated stop.
Japan Day 8: Michael Ende and Elephants
I was very upset when I found out it was supposed to rain all day. I took the JR local train from Matsumoto to Nagano, and then took an even more local train north to Kurohime station in the little town of Shinano. It was raining pretty heavily and, since it is a public holiday today in Japan (Sport’s Day), the local buses were not running. So I took a taxi from Kurohime station up to the Kurohime Fairy Tale Museum.
The Kurohime Fairy Tale Museum has been my pilgrimage destination this whole trip, because it holds a lot of Michael Ende’s papers, his turtle collectibles, his school documents, etc.
When I was done visiting the museum, the rain had let up, so I decided to walk the hour it would take to reach my accommodation for the night.
Along the way I stopped at the Lake Nojiri Naumann Elephant Museum. Elephants are the last animal I think of when I think of Japan, but 40,000 years ago humans around this lake were hunting elephants.
They are still finding fossils in active excavations now.
I then finished heading to my hotel. Since it is the end of a long weekend, the crowds are gone and I’m actually the only guest here tonight. The owner said I’m the first non-Japanese person he’s met that has come here specifically for the Fairy Tale Museum; he mostly only knows of families going there for the events they hold.
It’s raining again. Tomorrow I head to Tokyo for the final leg of my trip.
Japan Day 9: Traveling to Tokyo and Asakusa
I had a bit of a lazy morning. I had breakfast while talking to the owner of the hotel (he’s a native English speaker who just happened to have been born and raised in Japan).
The hotel owner gave me a ride to the train station, and I then headed towards Tokyo.
I got off at Ueno Station, since that was the closest spot to my hotel for the remainder of my stay. I had a little time to kill before I could check in, so I visited the Asakusa neighborhood on my way to the hotel.
I was so happy to get to the hotel and put my heavy backpack down. I let my phone charge a bit, and then headed back towards Asakusa, passing lots of places I wish I could eat (Turkish Döner Kebab! Burger King! KFC!), so I could go to the tourist center and get my discounted Subway card for the next three days. I then grabbed my dinner from 7-Eleven (Oyakodon tonight) and got back to the hotel before then rain really started coming down.
Tomorrow I shall really start my Tokyo sightseeing, starting with a tour of the Toshio Kashio Memorial Museum of Invention.
Japan Day 10: Casio Inventions, Gundam, and French Fries
First, to go back to last night, I wanted to sleep but was prevented from doing so by street construction that began promptly at 8pm. Japanese culture centers around serving the community over individuals, so for them it makes sense to work at night, disturbing a few residents rather than inconvenience the flow of traffic and pedestrians during the day. Luckily they only were really noisy for a couple of hours, though the placard announcing the working times does say work will possibly happen each night I’m here.
In the morning, I headed towards the Toshio Kashio Memorial Museum of Invention. This was the only thing, beyond my lodging, that I booked in advance and therefore had set in stone. The museum is in the middle of a very well-to-do residential neighborhood.
Toshio Kashio was one of the four Kashio brothers who created Casio Computers, famous for their calculators, watches, musical instruments, and electronic dictionaries. Toshio Kashio had over 300 patents, including ones for automatic scoring systems for bowling. It’s thanks to him and his brothers that we have some really cool gadgets, but also things we take for granted, like the number pad on our keyboards and calculators.
After my tour was done, I decided to make use of the last day of my JR Pass and head to Yokohama for the Gundam Factory, a full size moving Gundam. I think I will have to spend more time in Yokohama the next time I visit Japan; it seemed like a really cool place. The Gundam Factory was only supposed to be open until March 2023, but due to the pandemic and high demand, it was extended until March 2024, so I decided I should take advantage of that extension.
After that I was pretty tired - both the museum and the Gundam required a good bit of walking to reach - and my phone, which drains a good bit when in map mode, was also tired, so I headed back to my hotel. Along the way, I snapped a picture of the outer gate of the Sensō-ji that I had missed yesterday.
I also stopped in a McDonalds. I can’t eat anything at McDonald’s in the US, not even the fries. McDonalds, once upon a time, used to cook their fries in beef lard. Not great for vegetarians, but it’s what made their fries so yummy. Ever since people started worrying about trans fats, though, the beef lard was no longer viable, so McDonald’s replicated the beef flavor, and that beef flavoring contains milk. In Japan, however, they still use beef lard, so their fries don’t have milk and since the fries are cooked in their own frier, they also aren’t contaminated with milk from other items.
Now to rest up - tomorrow is my last full day in Japan, so I have to make it count!
Japan Day 11: Tokyo Tower and Shopping
Today was my last full day. I started off by going to Tokyo Tower. It’s maybe not as cool now that Tokyo Skytree exists (Tokyo Tower is 1092 feet tall; Tokyo Skytree is 2080 feet tall), but I only wanted to visit one, and Tokyo Tower is the tower that showed up in the anime and movies I grew up with, so that’s why I wanted to see it.
After I finished visiting Tokyo Tower, I proceeded on a whirlwind path of subway stations to hit some key tourism and shopping spots. First up, Shinjuku.
Then I headed to Jimbōchō, Tokyo’s book district.
I then headed to Shibuya, home to Tokyo’s busiest pedestrian crossing. It’s also where one can find Tokyo’s Nintendo store.
My feet were finished at this point, so I headed back to my hotel.
Here’s today’s haul of goodies:
In the morning I get to play Tetris with everything, get packed up, and head towards the airport.
Japan Day 12: Flying Home
I managed to get everything into my (now very heavy) backpack. I had a few hours to kill, so I decided to kill my back a little and visit a bookstore before heading to the airport.
I then bought a ticket for the Tokyo Monorail which goes from the Tokyo Tower area to Haneda Airport.
My phone has been alerting me non-stop the past few days that there is a change in my activity amounts. Don’t worry, phone. Soon I’ll return to previous trends.
Now I’m just chilling at the airport. It took no time to get through security. Not looking forward to the flight itself, and I have mixed feelings about leaving, but I know my feet would really appreciate a break.
Thank you, Japan! 楽しかった!