Japan Day 7: Woodblock Prints and Matsumoto Castle

Left Kyoto very early this morning and headed into the mountains to Matsumoto. I recorded video of one of the Shinkansen arriving and departing, in case you didn’t get enough of trains in yesterday’s post.

This is what an empty regular Shinkansen car looks like.

I had to switch from the Shinkansen to a regular regional train at Nagoya, but the scenery along this route was beautiful.

The scenery on the Shinano line from Nagoya towards Nagano is hard to photograph, but beautiful.

Train, car, river, and mountain in parallel.

As we approached Matsumoto, some of the peaks ceased having trees on them, wearing a crown of snow instead. It was cloudy and grey when I reached Matsumoto station. I grabbed a snack, and then took a local train towards the Matsumoto Ukiyo-e Museum, which is out more in the suburbs/countryside.

The skies were grey when I exited the station.

There were lots of wildflowers on the way to the museum.

Fields either held food crops (lots of which had had rice) or wildflowers.

I am a big fan of Japanese woodblock prints; I have many books at home on Ukiyo-E prints. I was really excited therefore to go to the museum. When paying my entrance fee, the elderly man at the register smiled and quipped that those over 60 don’t have to pay the full price. I replied that I’m not quite there yet. There are only around 150 prints (out of a collection of 10,000) on display at a time. There is also a video showing the process of carving the blocks and making the prints.

You could experience the making of an Ukiyo-E woodblock print using stamps. There were three different designs of 4 to 5 colors each.

Only a small portion of the ten thousand prints held here are displayed at a time (and in darkened conditions) to help preserve them. The current exhibit was themed around fashion and makeup.

A few classics were also on display. I’m a huge fan of Utagawa Kuniyoshi, so was excited to see some of his. It was really cool getting to see these prints in real life.

Two of my favorite Utagawa Kuniyoshi prints are on the top row.

Google assured me it was only a 25-minute walk to Matsumoto Castle from the museum, so I headed back towards the city rather than walk back to the local train stop (where I could have had to wait up to 45 minutes). My feet would have probably preferred I hadn’t, but it was neat seeing a part of Japan that wasn’t city.

Field of what was rice, with kids playing baseball behind that.


I think this is my first time seeing eggplant attached to its plant.


Believe it or not, five minutes later I was surrounded by buildings and cars.


Here come the buildings! I think a much higher percentage of people in Matsumoto drive than in the other places I’ve been.

Overpass crossing train tracks. Sign says in big letters “No skateboarding! No dancing!”

I did eventually reach the castle and joined the slow moving line through the castle interior up to the top of the keep.

Matsumoto Castle was built in 1594 and is one of the few which have survived to now without having to be completely rebuilt (during the Meiji era it was unfortunately believed modernization meant completely abolishing the past).

Its nickname is the Crow Castle, due to its black color, but the most common bird I saw was the pigeon.

Pigeons looking regal.

There are koi fish in the moat happy for snacks (though the pigeons did their best to get the food first).

A gathering of koi.

Red bridge, black castle, and grey pigeons.

The entrance unfortunately is on the opposite side of the castle; the bridge is not open.

Matsumoto City’s mascot Alp-chan.

I then joined the long line to go inside the castle and up all six floors of the tower.

I watched him draw directions for someone in the gravel using the hilt of his short sword, as well as pose for countless photos with visitors.

Still in line, but closer.

There was a lot more decoration than I was expecting for a battle-oriented fortification.

View from the second floor. All visitors have to remove their shoes and place them in a bag while in the castle. I didn’t know about this beforehand, and so sockless I, along with a little girl and one old man, were the only left barefoot.

Armor of a gunman. One of the people who helped finance the modern day castle upkeep also collected historic guns used while the castle was active. Many of these were on display on the second floor.

View of the line outside from the sixth floor. The “stairs” were the most vertical scary stairs I’ve ever been up or down. You are prohibited from photographing around them for completely understandable safety reasons. The red seats in the upper left hand corner were where people in fancy kimono and suits were engaged in traditional tea ceremony.

Another view of the line-side, with a bit of the food tents surrounding the castle. The city is having a soba festival right now.

The bridge from six stories up.

Another version of Matsumoto City’s mascot Alp-chan, outside the castle gate.


A swan nestles against the castle foundations.

After making my way back down and putting on my shoes, I headed through Matsumoto back towards the train station, around where my hotel for the night is. I saw a a wedding procession in traditional dress. I really enjoyed the look of the buildings of Matsumoto in comparison to Hiroshima and Kyoto. I feel like they were more varied in design. Some were downright playful.

A number of street crossing signs have parallel rows of dots that count down to when the light will change.

I hope to sleep this well tonight.

A fun frog statue.

Determined cats on a bridge.

Red flowers on the bridge; mountains in the back. Almost makes me think of Garmisch.

The largest pendulum clock in Japan graces the outside of the Matsumoto Timepiece Museum.

The manhole covers depict temari, a local craft.

A cheeky bar I passed.

A side street in Matsumoto.

I’m staying in private rooms the rest of my trip with private bathrooms. This particular hotel has you take your shoes off immediately; they have to be stored in the shoe room while you are at the hotel.

Panorama of my room.

Bathroom. The tub is one you sit in. They provide an envelope of bath powder, but I’ll be passing as it unfortunately contains milk ingredients.

The phone looks fun.

Tomorrow I will be heading out early for Shinano and my most-anticipated stop.

Japan Day 6: Fushimi Inari Taisha, Trains, and Giant Salamanders

This morning I headed to Fushimi Inari Taisha, a head Shinto shrine famous for its thousand red torii gates of various sizes, hundreds of which form tunnels. There are fox statues everywhere because the white (invisible spirit) fox is supposed to be a messenger for the Inari, the kami for rice, agriculture, and business.

The entrance to the shrine’s grounds begin immediately when you exit the train station.

This fox holds a jewel in its mouth.

The key in the fox’s mouth is supposed to be to the rice granary.

Rice, sake, and other goods offered to the Inari.

An offering of tuna.

It started out very crowded (though judging by the train station, I left before it got *really* busy).

Each one of these gates was donated by a business. A message - typically the name of said business- is carved in black on the other side of the torii’s posts.

The further up the mountain (Mt. Inari), the fewer people there were. I didn’t climb up all the way to the top; my feet still ache from visiting the monkeys.

There are lots of these little shrines along the path (and the little red gates count towards the thousand).

Lots of white foxes.

The mountain is a labyrinth of shrines and gates.

Up and up. I don’t think I even got halfway before taking one of the available down routes, but all the way to the top is 233 meters, or 764 feet.

Some of the main buildings with offerings being given and prayer tablets available for sale.

I then headed for the Kyoto Railway Museum. This place was awesome. It has 54 engines and train cars on display, as well as exhibits on the history of trains in Japan and every aspect of the workings, construction, and maintenance of trains and subways. Best bang for my buck so far. It wasn’t very crowded and there was a good mix of excited small children and train enthusiasts.

The oldest British-style steam locomotive completely manufactured in Japan, from 1903.

Sort of what my train to the shrine was like this morning, except without being packed full of people.

Though most were closed off for preservation reasons, a few of the cars were opened up to allow visitors to walk through.

The first DC electric train manufactured in Japan in 1928.

“In Japan there is an ancient custom of removing footwear before entering into a house. When the railroads first opened business, it seems that people who were not used to this new vehicle yet would unfortunately leave their footwear on the platform when boarding the train.”

The first steam locomotive imported from Britain, back in 1881.

A 1960 diesel.

“Nostalgia Shop” - what a Showa-era candy stand looked like.

A small vehicle from the Showa era.

A DC electric locomotive from 1968.

They had tunnels under a couple of the engines so you could see them from below; this is under a DC electric locomotive from 1968.

From 1996, the first Shinkansen to hit (a then record) 300 km/hr (186 mph).

Wheels and bogies for various types of trains.

A variety of signals, which you can operate via pedal.

Two EMU trains; the one on the left is from 1968, and featured seats that could transform into beds. The one on the right is from 1971.

They had a room of Japan Rail promotion logos; this one was my favorite.

Train on-board bathrooms have come a long way. The museum had an exhibit for every aspect of the train - handles for standing passengers, seat designs, entrance gates, climate control systems, you name it.

What’s a train museum without Thomas? I definitely saw more than one little kid wearing a Thomas shirt.

More Thomas.

View of the main museum building from the second floor.

There is a wall of train-themed music.

Shinkansen Henkei Robo Shinkalion, or Transforming Bullet Train Robot Shinkalion, toys. There is an anime, of course.

The museum’s sky terrace offers a nice view of the trains heading towards and from Kyoto Station.

A steam locomotive built in 1914.

A steam locomotive from 1946.

Left to right: a 1946 steam locomotive, a 1927 steam locomotive with chrysanthemum and phoenix motifs, and a 1928 steam locomotive.

This little steam locomotive was imported into Japan from the United States in 1880.

This roundhouse was initially built in 1914; it has special historical designation.

The Railway Museum was connected to a park which had a craft fair happening and which seemed to be getting ready for a large outdoor music festival over the next couple of days. I meandered through, since that was also the way back to Kyoto Station and I didn’t feel like packing myself like a sardine into the train for a single stop. Halfway along the park I found myself at the Kyoto Aquarium snd decided to visit. It’s a small aquarium, but it was slightly cheaper than the St. Louis one and I think a better deal, particularly if you like jellyfish, eels, or salamanders.

Walking back from the Railway Museum, I chanced upon the Kyoto Aquarium, saw the giant salamander here, and thought, why not? These giant salamanders apparently live in the river I crossed yesterday.

They have little tanks showing the life cycle of the Japanese Giant Salamander, before it becomes giant. It doesn’t stay axolotl-like for very long at all.

They really like just piling up on one another. Humans for size comparison. There are apparently two species of Chinese salamander that are bigger.

“Compare your height to the biggest Giant Salamander in the aquarium!” The person who was nice enough to take my photo laughed when she saw I was the same. In the past I’ve measured 160 cm; not sure if my shoes and hat make up the extra one. In short, though, I am basically a giant salamander.

Sea lion rolling around.

The large tank was comprised of the fish, rays, and sharks that can be found in Kyoto’s bay along the Japan Sea.

South African penguin.

If you like jellyfish, this aquarium is great. They have lots of tanks showing how much moon jellyfish grow - from barely perceptible little spots in the tank representing the first few days. There are multiple other species of jellyfish on display as well.

These little garden eels are the coolest.

“Hi!”

Do they even know what their tails look like?

There were a few small tanks of fish.

This tank also had blue tang and clownfish, because all aquariums are required to have those thanks to Pixar.

Anemone and anemone-liking fish.

I was getting worried there wouldn’t be a single turtle.

There was no dolphin show today, but I did get to see this one receive a massage.

Walking back to my hostel from the aquarium. My feet are pretty dead.

One particularly cool thing about the aquarium is that all of the identify-that-creature signs are beautifully painted by students of the local art college.

Tomorrow I hop on a train early in the morning and head for Matsumoto and the Japanese Alps.

Japan Day 5: Bamboo, Monkeys, and the Toei Movie Studio Park

I got up rather early this morning, and had a bit of a struggle finding the local train I wanted, but made it in the end. It was absolutely packed, my punishment for being so early, as it was full of students and other commuters. One fun feature of the train: the seat backs can be flipped to the other side, so when the train at its first/final stop switches direction you can always face the way it is headed.

My first destination was the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. The bamboo on either side of the path is insanely tall, and it was beautiful, but boy did it become crowded quick. I was also surprised to find out that there are blocked paths to private residential scattered throughout, in addition to some shrines, temples, and closed-off (for good reason) cemeteries.

It’s hard to capture just how tall the bamboo is.

Part of Nonomiya Shrine, which is along the Bamboo Path

The rest was free of spiders, but there was one stretch of trail that was full of joro spiders. I thought of my sister. I also thought about how Princess Kaguya would have been about the size of one of these when found by the bamboo cutter in the folktale.

An incredibly rare quiet moment, fleeting as moments are. Those bicycles were soon ring-a-ling-linging past.

I tried to avoid crowds by going really early, but it was still very packed. I now have a particular hatred for selfie sticks and couples.

Bamboo cutters cleared out a bit here; who knows if they found a little Princess Kaguya?

There are temples, graveyards, and private residences along the bamboo path.

I don’t know what animal this guy is, but his Smoky the Bear like message is to watch your cigarette butts since mountain forests are prone to fires.

After wandering through the bamboo path, I headed towards the Togetsukyo Bridge, which has existed in some form since the 800s and is a famous subject of Ukiyo-e woodblock prints. The current iteration maintains the wooden railings but has concrete as its floor so that cars can drive over.

Silhouette of the bridge.

The water was very clear. I saw some ducks. On the road, I saw some rickshaws.

There are a series of small waterfalls as the river goes under the bridge.

These are some of the cooler looking boats. There were also lots of the blue standard-fare pedal boats.

Bridge viewed from the city side.

The bridge viewed from the Arashiyama-side.

Watching people watching people boat.

On the mountain side of the bridge, I started ascending up a very vertical, but at least shaded, forest trail. 160 meters up, or 525 feet, is the Iwatayama Monkey Park. It takes about 30 minutes to climb up to the top, but once there you are able to be up close to Japanese snow monkeys.

This way to Monkey Park

You don’t want to be a dead monkey. This vending machine basically only sold water.

The answer to the first question is B -macaque. The answer to the second question is A - cicadas. And the answer to the third question is all of them.

The path to Monkey Park is long and arduous, though there are benches along the way. And, when you are 95% of the way there, there is also a playground in case your kids somehow still have energy.

This one is on his break.

It was worth the ¥600 just for the view alone.

I really like the baby monkeys.

160 meters is a lot of meters. My feet and knees can attest to that.

This one is snacking on some leaves.

They are omnivorous.

She is carefully grooming one of her friends, who is laid out super relaxed-like.

Looking at a monkey looking at people looking at a different monkey.

He’s king of the rooftop. In this building were restrooms and monkey food you could feed to them through the safety of some bars.

This little guy was cute. He did his best climbing and swinging, even though he is still figuring both out.

Again, crazy good view.

If your hips are narrow enough, you can save yourself some steps.

After climbing back down the 160 meters, I decided to punish my feet some more, since I was just one station away, and I went to the Toei Movie Studio Park, which is attached to a real Toei movie lot.

Turtle.

Heading back on the train to go one stop to the theme park.

It’s nice to know that even in a country where trains are ubiquitous that people still excitedly film the trains coming and going.

The whole park is like stepping inside of a Japanese period film, if that period film had a bunch of modern elementary school children running around in fox masks hitting each other with foam swords. I think it is probably best for groups of 2 or more, to take advantage of all of the photo opportunities, or for small kids, since that’s who the attractions are mostly aimed at. There isn’t a ton of English, but I still recommend it, especially if one is a fan of samurai movies.

I got a free tiny photo of myself in front of the true to size top half of the Evangelion mecha. You can climb to the top and sit in the pilot’s seat, which just made me wonder how mecha pilots don’t do more accidental damage - everything is so small when one is so high up.

My pilot synchronization score was “Nope, you are a (likely doomed) civilian.”

“Angels” (giant monsters) from Neon Genesis Evangelion.

It was fun wandering down the streets, peering into the buildings which often had replica furniture and tools in them (along with big “Do Not Touch” signs).

Building containing archives, special exhibits on actress Hibari Misora, Kamen Rider, and Toei animation, as well as the gift shop.

Home of the fictional Edo policeman Zenigata Heiji, who would throw zeni (pennies) at criminals. Lupin the Third’s Zenigata is supposed to be a descendant of him.

Getting ready for the ninja show.

The comic relief characters break the fourth wall to tell the audience that photos - specifically photos of them, why aren’t you taking photos of them!? - are ok.

The actors in the live ninja show I watched.

Souvenir photo of myself if I were historical figure Sakamoto Ryouma. They have a menu of costumes to choose from, and they fit everything over your clothes and literally have costume and wig on, photo taken, costume and wig off, and photo printed in 5 minutes total.


This automated ninja scoots back and forth on the wires.

Many of the structures, like this bridge, are replicas of structures that historically existed in either Kyoto or Edo (present-day Tokyo).

The skies were beautiful, but it was extremely windy.

A model shrine.

Fox masks. So many fox masks.

Kids running by an old style trolly car.

The small section dedicated to Toei Animation had cells and promotional materials for a number of shows. Here, Galaxy Express 999.

GeGeGe no Kitaro

Arale from Dr. Slump (N’cha!) and Sailor Moon

Mazinger Z

I walked over 25,000 steps today (over 7 miles). I also discovered that around the corner from my hostel are a koi breeding farm and also a robot hotel, where robotic velociraptors serve to check you in. I also saw an old man practice his golf swing against the concrete of the street.

Such a clever girl.

I had food from 7-Eleven today; essentially yakisoba with some pieces of pork. It was a bit spicier than I anticipated, but good. I also did laundry.

I shouldn’t have complained of my bunkmate; tonight’s bottom bunk inhabiter has wrinkled plastic for like five hours straight.

Tomorrow will be more adventures in Kyoto.