Japan Day 6: Fushimi Inari Taisha, Trains, and Giant Salamanders

This morning I headed to Fushimi Inari Taisha, a head Shinto shrine famous for its thousand red torii gates of various sizes, hundreds of which form tunnels. There are fox statues everywhere because the white (invisible spirit) fox is supposed to be a messenger for the Inari, the kami for rice, agriculture, and business.

The entrance to the shrine’s grounds begin immediately when you exit the train station.

This fox holds a jewel in its mouth.

The key in the fox’s mouth is supposed to be to the rice granary.

Rice, sake, and other goods offered to the Inari.

An offering of tuna.

It started out very crowded (though judging by the train station, I left before it got *really* busy).

Each one of these gates was donated by a business. A message - typically the name of said business- is carved in black on the other side of the torii’s posts.

The further up the mountain (Mt. Inari), the fewer people there were. I didn’t climb up all the way to the top; my feet still ache from visiting the monkeys.

There are lots of these little shrines along the path (and the little red gates count towards the thousand).

Lots of white foxes.

The mountain is a labyrinth of shrines and gates.

Up and up. I don’t think I even got halfway before taking one of the available down routes, but all the way to the top is 233 meters, or 764 feet.

Some of the main buildings with offerings being given and prayer tablets available for sale.

I then headed for the Kyoto Railway Museum. This place was awesome. It has 54 engines and train cars on display, as well as exhibits on the history of trains in Japan and every aspect of the workings, construction, and maintenance of trains and subways. Best bang for my buck so far. It wasn’t very crowded and there was a good mix of excited small children and train enthusiasts.

The oldest British-style steam locomotive completely manufactured in Japan, from 1903.

Sort of what my train to the shrine was like this morning, except without being packed full of people.

Though most were closed off for preservation reasons, a few of the cars were opened up to allow visitors to walk through.

The first DC electric train manufactured in Japan in 1928.

“In Japan there is an ancient custom of removing footwear before entering into a house. When the railroads first opened business, it seems that people who were not used to this new vehicle yet would unfortunately leave their footwear on the platform when boarding the train.”

The first steam locomotive imported from Britain, back in 1881.

A 1960 diesel.

“Nostalgia Shop” - what a Showa-era candy stand looked like.

A small vehicle from the Showa era.

A DC electric locomotive from 1968.

They had tunnels under a couple of the engines so you could see them from below; this is under a DC electric locomotive from 1968.

From 1996, the first Shinkansen to hit (a then record) 300 km/hr (186 mph).

Wheels and bogies for various types of trains.

A variety of signals, which you can operate via pedal.

Two EMU trains; the one on the left is from 1968, and featured seats that could transform into beds. The one on the right is from 1971.

They had a room of Japan Rail promotion logos; this one was my favorite.

Train on-board bathrooms have come a long way. The museum had an exhibit for every aspect of the train - handles for standing passengers, seat designs, entrance gates, climate control systems, you name it.

What’s a train museum without Thomas? I definitely saw more than one little kid wearing a Thomas shirt.

More Thomas.

View of the main museum building from the second floor.

There is a wall of train-themed music.

Shinkansen Henkei Robo Shinkalion, or Transforming Bullet Train Robot Shinkalion, toys. There is an anime, of course.

The museum’s sky terrace offers a nice view of the trains heading towards and from Kyoto Station.

A steam locomotive built in 1914.

A steam locomotive from 1946.

Left to right: a 1946 steam locomotive, a 1927 steam locomotive with chrysanthemum and phoenix motifs, and a 1928 steam locomotive.

This little steam locomotive was imported into Japan from the United States in 1880.

This roundhouse was initially built in 1914; it has special historical designation.

The Railway Museum was connected to a park which had a craft fair happening and which seemed to be getting ready for a large outdoor music festival over the next couple of days. I meandered through, since that was also the way back to Kyoto Station and I didn’t feel like packing myself like a sardine into the train for a single stop. Halfway along the park I found myself at the Kyoto Aquarium snd decided to visit. It’s a small aquarium, but it was slightly cheaper than the St. Louis one and I think a better deal, particularly if you like jellyfish, eels, or salamanders.

Walking back from the Railway Museum, I chanced upon the Kyoto Aquarium, saw the giant salamander here, and thought, why not? These giant salamanders apparently live in the river I crossed yesterday.

They have little tanks showing the life cycle of the Japanese Giant Salamander, before it becomes giant. It doesn’t stay axolotl-like for very long at all.

They really like just piling up on one another. Humans for size comparison. There are apparently two species of Chinese salamander that are bigger.

“Compare your height to the biggest Giant Salamander in the aquarium!” The person who was nice enough to take my photo laughed when she saw I was the same. In the past I’ve measured 160 cm; not sure if my shoes and hat make up the extra one. In short, though, I am basically a giant salamander.

Sea lion rolling around.

The large tank was comprised of the fish, rays, and sharks that can be found in Kyoto’s bay along the Japan Sea.

South African penguin.

If you like jellyfish, this aquarium is great. They have lots of tanks showing how much moon jellyfish grow - from barely perceptible little spots in the tank representing the first few days. There are multiple other species of jellyfish on display as well.

These little garden eels are the coolest.

“Hi!”

Do they even know what their tails look like?

There were a few small tanks of fish.

This tank also had blue tang and clownfish, because all aquariums are required to have those thanks to Pixar.

Anemone and anemone-liking fish.

I was getting worried there wouldn’t be a single turtle.

There was no dolphin show today, but I did get to see this one receive a massage.

Walking back to my hostel from the aquarium. My feet are pretty dead.

One particularly cool thing about the aquarium is that all of the identify-that-creature signs are beautifully painted by students of the local art college.

Tomorrow I hop on a train early in the morning and head for Matsumoto and the Japanese Alps.

Japan Day 5: Bamboo, Monkeys, and the Toei Movie Studio Park

I got up rather early this morning, and had a bit of a struggle finding the local train I wanted, but made it in the end. It was absolutely packed, my punishment for being so early, as it was full of students and other commuters. One fun feature of the train: the seat backs can be flipped to the other side, so when the train at its first/final stop switches direction you can always face the way it is headed.

My first destination was the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. The bamboo on either side of the path is insanely tall, and it was beautiful, but boy did it become crowded quick. I was also surprised to find out that there are blocked paths to private residential scattered throughout, in addition to some shrines, temples, and closed-off (for good reason) cemeteries.

It’s hard to capture just how tall the bamboo is.

Part of Nonomiya Shrine, which is along the Bamboo Path

The rest was free of spiders, but there was one stretch of trail that was full of joro spiders. I thought of my sister. I also thought about how Princess Kaguya would have been about the size of one of these when found by the bamboo cutter in the folktale.

An incredibly rare quiet moment, fleeting as moments are. Those bicycles were soon ring-a-ling-linging past.

I tried to avoid crowds by going really early, but it was still very packed. I now have a particular hatred for selfie sticks and couples.

Bamboo cutters cleared out a bit here; who knows if they found a little Princess Kaguya?

There are temples, graveyards, and private residences along the bamboo path.

I don’t know what animal this guy is, but his Smoky the Bear like message is to watch your cigarette butts since mountain forests are prone to fires.

After wandering through the bamboo path, I headed towards the Togetsukyo Bridge, which has existed in some form since the 800s and is a famous subject of Ukiyo-e woodblock prints. The current iteration maintains the wooden railings but has concrete as its floor so that cars can drive over.

Silhouette of the bridge.

The water was very clear. I saw some ducks. On the road, I saw some rickshaws.

There are a series of small waterfalls as the river goes under the bridge.

These are some of the cooler looking boats. There were also lots of the blue standard-fare pedal boats.

Bridge viewed from the city side.

The bridge viewed from the Arashiyama-side.

Watching people watching people boat.

On the mountain side of the bridge, I started ascending up a very vertical, but at least shaded, forest trail. 160 meters up, or 525 feet, is the Iwatayama Monkey Park. It takes about 30 minutes to climb up to the top, but once there you are able to be up close to Japanese snow monkeys.

This way to Monkey Park

You don’t want to be a dead monkey. This vending machine basically only sold water.

The answer to the first question is B -macaque. The answer to the second question is A - cicadas. And the answer to the third question is all of them.

The path to Monkey Park is long and arduous, though there are benches along the way. And, when you are 95% of the way there, there is also a playground in case your kids somehow still have energy.

This one is on his break.

It was worth the ¥600 just for the view alone.

I really like the baby monkeys.

160 meters is a lot of meters. My feet and knees can attest to that.

This one is snacking on some leaves.

They are omnivorous.

She is carefully grooming one of her friends, who is laid out super relaxed-like.

Looking at a monkey looking at people looking at a different monkey.

He’s king of the rooftop. In this building were restrooms and monkey food you could feed to them through the safety of some bars.

This little guy was cute. He did his best climbing and swinging, even though he is still figuring both out.

Again, crazy good view.

If your hips are narrow enough, you can save yourself some steps.

After climbing back down the 160 meters, I decided to punish my feet some more, since I was just one station away, and I went to the Toei Movie Studio Park, which is attached to a real Toei movie lot.

Turtle.

Heading back on the train to go one stop to the theme park.

It’s nice to know that even in a country where trains are ubiquitous that people still excitedly film the trains coming and going.

The whole park is like stepping inside of a Japanese period film, if that period film had a bunch of modern elementary school children running around in fox masks hitting each other with foam swords. I think it is probably best for groups of 2 or more, to take advantage of all of the photo opportunities, or for small kids, since that’s who the attractions are mostly aimed at. There isn’t a ton of English, but I still recommend it, especially if one is a fan of samurai movies.

I got a free tiny photo of myself in front of the true to size top half of the Evangelion mecha. You can climb to the top and sit in the pilot’s seat, which just made me wonder how mecha pilots don’t do more accidental damage - everything is so small when one is so high up.

My pilot synchronization score was “Nope, you are a (likely doomed) civilian.”

“Angels” (giant monsters) from Neon Genesis Evangelion.

It was fun wandering down the streets, peering into the buildings which often had replica furniture and tools in them (along with big “Do Not Touch” signs).

Building containing archives, special exhibits on actress Hibari Misora, Kamen Rider, and Toei animation, as well as the gift shop.

Home of the fictional Edo policeman Zenigata Heiji, who would throw zeni (pennies) at criminals. Lupin the Third’s Zenigata is supposed to be a descendant of him.

Getting ready for the ninja show.

The comic relief characters break the fourth wall to tell the audience that photos - specifically photos of them, why aren’t you taking photos of them!? - are ok.

The actors in the live ninja show I watched.

Souvenir photo of myself if I were historical figure Sakamoto Ryouma. They have a menu of costumes to choose from, and they fit everything over your clothes and literally have costume and wig on, photo taken, costume and wig off, and photo printed in 5 minutes total.


This automated ninja scoots back and forth on the wires.

Many of the structures, like this bridge, are replicas of structures that historically existed in either Kyoto or Edo (present-day Tokyo).

The skies were beautiful, but it was extremely windy.

A model shrine.

Fox masks. So many fox masks.

Kids running by an old style trolly car.

The small section dedicated to Toei Animation had cells and promotional materials for a number of shows. Here, Galaxy Express 999.

GeGeGe no Kitaro

Arale from Dr. Slump (N’cha!) and Sailor Moon

Mazinger Z

I walked over 25,000 steps today (over 7 miles). I also discovered that around the corner from my hostel are a koi breeding farm and also a robot hotel, where robotic velociraptors serve to check you in. I also saw an old man practice his golf swing against the concrete of the street.

Such a clever girl.

I had food from 7-Eleven today; essentially yakisoba with some pieces of pork. It was a bit spicier than I anticipated, but good. I also did laundry.

I shouldn’t have complained of my bunkmate; tonight’s bottom bunk inhabiter has wrinkled plastic for like five hours straight.

Tomorrow will be more adventures in Kyoto.

Japan Day 4: Traveling to Kyoto

Meandered through the streets of Hiroshima to the train station. I continue to be amazed how most city streets are single-lane affairs shared by cars, bicycles, and pedestrians.

Street in Hiroshima

An interesting shrine I saw on my way to Hiroshima station.

I found some cool manhole covers along the way. I have a book at home that has 700 manhole covers from across Japan in it arranged by theme, and I’m pretty sure both of these are in it.

Hiroshima manhole cover showing chains of origami cranes, like one sees at the Peace Park.

Manhole cover showing Hiroshima Castle.

Hiroshima station was packed. I had to wait in line quite a while to exchange my voucher for my rail pass, which is effective from today. The Shinkansen I took from Hiroshima to Shin-Osaka was packed. I had some Pringles on the train; they are much smaller than American ones, less curved, less salty than even the reduced salt ones I normally buy, and less flavorful. But hungry people with limited food options can’t be choosy.

I have tiny hands. These Pringles are very small.

I then bought a ticket from Shin-Osaka to Kyoto. This was not a Shinkansen train, and it was very difficult finding the correct platform. I literally made it on at the last second. Unlike the Shinkansen, there was hardly anyone on this train.

Cool wooden-backed seats of the non-Shinkansen train I took from Shin-Osaka to Kyoto.

After arriving to Kyoto, I found my hostel for the next few nights. They let me check-in a little early and I took a small nap. The beds here are more like traditional hostel beds, though they do have a privacy curtain, USB charging ports, and a small reading light. I can tell already that it will be a bit harder to sleep tonight; the person in the bunk below me also was napping and he snores.

After my nap, I headed back to the station to get some food from the incredibly large department store there. I have now seen - but certainly didn’t purchase - Japan’s infamously expensive fruit. The apples ranged from ¥400 ($2.70) to ¥900 ($6.05) each depending on the variety. Grapes were ¥1800 ($12.10) to ¥2300 ($15.45) for a small bunch, and I saw a ¥6800 ($45.68) melon.

Kyoto Station

I also got a glimpse of the Kyoto Tower, which has been mocked in just about every guide I’ve seen as being a silly looking rocket. I don’t think it looked too bad.

Kyoto Tower, which unfairly gets mocked.

The coolest part of Kyoto Station is this illuminated staircase that stretches up 11 stories. The lights show animations accompanied by sounds and music.

Staircase showing an animation of people walking through the station.

And now the stairs are showing Japanese patterns.

Today was mostly traveling, but I’ll have two full days in Kyoto, so check back tomorrow!